Low life | 3 March 2016
Before we left for Sunday lunch at the Les Deux Garçons restaurant, Aix-en-Provence, I checked the reviews on Tripadvisor. I’m mildly addicted to Tripadvisor restaurant reviews — I enjoy their Pepys-like unselfconsciousness — and never before have I seen opinion so equally divided between praise and censure. According to the dissenters, Les Deux Garçons is
![](https://www.spectator.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/iStock_000007678299_Small.jpg?resize=440,293)