What’s good from the goose
Goose used to rule the roost
Food
Thursday
Monday
In defense of the English original sandwich
Yank yearns for ye olde English sandwich
Wednesday
Burrata inamorata
A thrifty Italian is to thank for burrata
Wednesday
Bread is the staff of life
In times of scarcity and anxiety, it seems that we like to have proper bread back on our table again
In search of lost French restaurants
It was a sad day when La Petite Auberge passed from the scene a decade ago
Saturday
The American dream has no time for offal
Why is the US taste in meat so blinkered and narrow?
Friday
Coffee with Coleen
Few if any breakfasts equal those I’ve consumed at Coleen’s Kitchen
Tuesday
The culinary wisdom of charity cookbooks
The Ladies’ Charity Cookbooks are neglected historical artifacts
The man in the White Castle
From the pioneers of the bun to the cheek of Earl Butz
Monday
My night at the Cheesecake Factory
The Cheesecake Factory is what a fashionable French writer would create in a novel if he needed a restaurant to embody American food excesses
Monday
I’ve come to love the onion
You name it, you can — and for some reason people always do — put onion in it
I miss America’s sandwiches
If the British public are not introduced to good sandwiches, they will not know what’s possible
Thursday
Can the Mayr diet work at home?
It’s amazing, but when you chew something 60 times, a piece of broccoli starts to taste sumptuous, complex, irresistible
The chowder crowd
A New England classic
Thursday
Back to the future: Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill reviewed
The west end of London is still pale and necrotic, but there are points of light. Hatchards the bookseller is open and its memorial to the Duke of Edinburgh is relatively, blissfully, restrained: a portrait in the window, with minimal text for a writer to trip up on his own sycophancy. People are buying whisky on Jermyn Street. The greasy spoon Piggy’s in Air Street survives and if before you merely loitered outside restaurants and ate your food from a bucket you can now sit down, though a strange sort of duck marshal lurks in St James’s Park, and I do not trust him. I do not think he is
Thursday
The diversity dinner
Marrying meatballs with plantains and curry
Sunday
Ten Christmas gifts for an adventurous eater
Bon appétit (and joyeux Noël)
Sunday
Porgy and best
How the porgy became my preferred piscine
Saturday
Game birds
Try Cornish hens for Thanksgiving
Wednesday
In the soup
An appreciation of cuisine’s kindest course
