In search of lost French restaurants
It was a sad day when La Petite Auberge passed from the scene a decade ago
It was a sad day when La Petite Auberge passed from the scene a decade ago
Why is the US taste in meat so blinkered and narrow?
Few if any breakfasts equal those I’ve consumed at Coleen’s Kitchen
The Ladies’ Charity Cookbooks are neglected historical artifacts
From the pioneers of the bun to the cheek of Earl Butz
The Cheesecake Factory is what a fashionable French writer would create in a novel if he needed a restaurant to embody American food excesses
You name it, you can — and for some reason people always do — put onion in it
If the British public are not introduced to good sandwiches, they will not know what’s possible
It’s amazing, but when you chew something 60 times, a piece of broccoli starts to taste sumptuous, complex, irresistible
A New England classic
The west end of London is still pale and necrotic, but there are points of light. Hatchards the bookseller is open and its memorial to the Duke of Edinburgh is relatively, blissfully, restrained: a portrait in the window, with minimal text for a writer to trip up on his own sycophancy. People are buying whisky on Jermyn Street. The greasy spoon Piggy’s in Air Street survives and if before you merely loitered outside restaurants and ate your food from a bucket you can now sit down, though a strange sort of duck marshal lurks in St James’s Park, and I do not trust him. I do not think he is
Marrying meatballs with plantains and curry
Bon appétit (and joyeux Noël)
How the porgy became my preferred piscine
Try Cornish hens for Thanksgiving
An appreciation of cuisine’s kindest course
Am I, a not-Chinese person, allowed to make sesame buns?
Dining out at the Trump DC
The effortlessly stick-thin Parisienne is a mythical creature
Who’s footing the bill?