Drink

Why is the wine industry dying?

Most wine columns resemble recipes from Larousse Gastronomique or Mastering the Art of French Cooking in this way: they have happy endings. This column, alas, proceeds with a melancholy burden. The world of wine, it pains me to report, is in the doldrums. Is it because of a new infestation of phylloxera, the blight that devastated French vineyards in the 19th century, or some other pest? Is it some novel tyranny of teetotalers, outlawing the production and consumption of wine? No. It is something closer to original sin or what Immanuel Kant on a dreary afternoon called “the crooked timber of humanity” out of which nothing straight can be fashioned.

My new discoveries from South Africa

When I heard that Minnesota Representative Ilhan Omar had gotten into the wine biz, I thought “Hot dog! If she is as good at wine as she is at investing, this should be spectacular.” I mean, talk about creatio ex nihilo. Just a few years ago, Omar had a net worth of about $1,000. Now she is said to be worth some $30 million. Perhaps only Nancy Pelosi, the world’s most successful investor, is better at conjuring something out of nothing. In 2022, eStCru, the winery Omar’s husband had invested in, was touted as a “hot brand” by Wine Business Monthly. There was chardonnay from the Willamette Valley, cabernet from