With good wine, it’s all in the timing

Three bottles, three questions that delivered three different answers. I was in Dorset — cannot keep away — enjoying the Indian summer while cursing the government’s ineptitude. As always, we ate well. I believe that those of us said to be at risk are supposed to bulk up. I did so with the aid of La Ratte potatoes, outstanding waxy spuds, even if they are French. Although many Frogs affect to despise the potato as an Anglo-American interloper, they do know how to grow it when they try. But the pièce de résistance, among several rivals, was carpaccio of halibut. I would aver that there is no finer fish to prepare in that way.

Young Arthur, not quite five, tucked in with relish. No one has told him, nor ever would, that there is ‘food’ and ‘kiddies’ food’. It was explained to him that a halibut has been known to weigh as much as 500lb.