One of the jolliest of our recent Spectator Winemaker Lunches was that hosted by Maria Urrutia, fifth–generation director of the family-owned Compañia Vinicola del Norte de España, better known as CVNE, producers of exemplary Rioja since 1879.
Fine Rioja is, famously, one of the most accessible of all wines and the most fairly priced, especially when compared to Bordeaux, Burgundy and beyond. The wines
are only released when ready to drink (a punter-friendly concept completely unknown to the Bordelais), with labels and terminology that are easy to understand.
For example, ‘Crianza’ means the wine has been aged for at least two years in oak and bottle, with a minimum of one year in the oak; ‘Reserva’ means it has been aged for three years, with a minimum of one year in oak; ‘Gran Reserva’ means at least two years in oak with at least three in bottle.
We drank long and we drank deep that day, and I’m proud to say the spittoons were returned to the Spectator cupboard as pristine as they’d left it. Thanks to Mr Wheeler, the wines we drank are now available here and I can’t recommend them highly enough.
The 2017 Viña Real Barrel Fermented Blanco (1) is a deliciously fresh and creamy white made from 100 per cent Viura. There are hints of green apples, spice and a touch of vanilla and it’s really rather grown-up for the price. £9.50 down from £11.25.
The 2016 Asúa Crianza (2) is a fresh’n’ fruity red for knocking back with abandon. Little complexity here but plenty of joyously succulent, spicy, plummy fruit. £12.25 down from £13.75.
The 2014 Contino Reserva (3) is a perfectly judged Tempranillo-based blend aged in American and French oak. A claret of similar quality would be half as much again for sure.
Comments
Join the debate for just £1 a month
Be part of the conversation with other Spectator readers by getting your first three months for £3.
UNLOCK ACCESS Just £1 a monthAlready a subscriber? Log in