Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

Wine Club: two astoundingly fine fizzes from Frerejean Frères

issue 23 April 2022

As you know, when it comes to champagne, Pol Roger is pretty much The Spectator’s house pour. Indeed, a dog-eared sign on the door of the office fridge demands that staff always ensure there are two bottles chilling within it for emergency celebrations and commiserations or simply for whenever the moment strikes.

It’s a rare occasion at 22 Old Queen Street when a bottle of Pol isn’t broached, then, and the fabled Spectator summer party is fuelled by little else. But one can’t live on Grande Marque Champagne alone and much as we adore PR, there are other effervescent treats out there that should not be ignored.

This is a champagne hitherto unknown to me, but one that I’ve fallen for in a big way

Away from the big names, Henri Chauvet and Brimoncourt always impress and remain two of my absolute favourite champagnes, neither of which I ever tire of recommending.

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