It has been a punishing, fuzzy few days, thanks to a brace of Spectator Wine-maker Lunches, a Spectator Champagne Dinner, an uproarious Spectator Writer’s Dinner with the mighty Rory Sutherland and several vital cocktail bars to investigate. How does that song go about nights I can’t remember with friends I can’t forget?
It was a while before I was ready to approach the dozen or so wines that Robin Davis of Swig sent for selection but once I did, I found I had quite a thirst, great testament to the quality of the wines.
The 2024 Secateurs Chenin Blanc (1) comes from Swartland, South Africa, and the eccentric mastermind that is Adi Badenhorst. I say that as a huge compliment. I’ve never met Adi, but we’ve chatted on the phone and it’s fair to say he’s something of a vinous genius, unbound by convention. I love his wines and his thoughtful but freestyle approach, and this is the perfect introduction: a low-yield, old-vine, organic Chenin Blanc, aged on the lees in both concrete and oak.
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