It’s a tough job tasting wines for the Spectator Wine Club but one that I selflessly shoulder on your behalf. Occasionally, though, as on this occasion, I ask my nearest and dearest to help me.
Mrs Ray is a unifying presence and approached the dozen or so bottles from Honest Grapes with her usual integrity, professionalism and accountability. My eldest son, Ferdy, withdrew as he believed it was ‘the right thing to do’ (he’s teetotal). My youngest son, Ludo (who’s anything but), was keen but overslept. ‘I believe I have much to offer,’ he texted from under his duvet, ‘but I am afraid that this is simply not the right time.’
Keen for borrowing costs to fall, we ensured that our picks cost no more than £13.50 a bottle
Mrs R and I pressed on alone in the interests of continuity and stability and, keen for borrowing costs to fall, we ensured that our picks cost no more than £13.50 a bottle.
The 2021 Le Chapeau Noir Sauvignon Blanc (1) is a curiosity: a Sauvignon Blanc produced in the south of France by a Dutchman trained in Burgundy – Floris Lemstra, owner/winemaker at Ch. Canet. Floris and the boys at Honest Grapes were far from certain how this experiment would turn out but, goodness, they’ve cracked it. Zestily fresh, crisp and dry with gooseberry, grass and nettles, it’s simple and undemanding, a charming quaffing wine with a bone-dry finish. £10 down from £11.
The 2019 Maison Darragon ‘Les Tuffes’ Vouvray Sec (2) comes from near Tours in the Loire Valley. The Darragon/Charbonnier families have made wine here for nine generations (since 1698 in fact) and are experts in the cultivation of Chenin Blanc. This, from 30-year-old vines, is spot on, with fresh and creamy baked apple and hints of zingy citrus.
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