There are worse ways of spending the late May bank holiday than tasting a dozen or so wines from Swig, the merchant beloved of my sainted predecessors Messrs Waugh and Hoggart.
Mrs Ray did question why I had to start so early, finish so late and ask so many neighbours to help but then she, too, got swept up in the fun and agreed that putting out spittoons would only spoil things and add to the washing up. She’s a trouper all right.
This selection from Swig is the perfect summer fare
The 2021 Di Meno Grillo (1), from the hills of north-west Sicily, is so engaging it demanded inclusion. I don’t get much on the nose – maybe a touch of peach and melon – but on the palate I get plenty: lemon zest, herbs, melon and grapefruit, and I love it. It’s simple, yes, but crisp, clean and refreshing and if you forgot to put a bottle in the fridge, just lob in an ice cube. No shame in that. £10.95 down from £12.95.
I’ve long enjoyed the wines of Austria, drinking buckets of them back in the day with my crazy godmother who lived in wine country and who kept her local Winzer afloat pretty much single-handedly with her weekly order (‘Bitte nur Literflaschen, Herr Pimpel…’). The 2022 Christoph Bauer Gemitscher Schatz (2) from vineyards north of Vienna is completely new to me, though, being a bonkers field blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Welschriesling, Neuberger and Traminer, harvested and fermented together. It’s lively and thirst-quenching, full of green apple and citrus with hints of grass and herbs, and has just the faintest of prickles in the mouth. In short, it’s perfect summer fare. £14.95 down from £16.95.
So, too, is the 2022 Le Grand Cros L’Esprit de Provence (3), a lovingly hand-made rosé from the foothills of the Massif des Maures, in the far south-east of France. If you’re bored with the big, bland, rosé brands that dominate the market, selling in their millions, then give this little charmer a whirl. A blend of Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault and a dash of white Rolle, it’s fresh and fruity, full of wild strawberries and herbs with a crisp, dry finish. Only 4,000 cases have been made. £15.50 down from £17.50.
In the midst ofen primeur season, the 2018 Ch. Valentin (4) is a joyful reminder of what great value can be found in Bordeaux if you know where to look. A classic blend of Cab Franc, Cab Sauv and Merlot from the Côtes de Blaye on the right bank of the Gironde, it’s deliciously concentrated and intense with cherries, plums and pencil shavings backed by enticingly earthy mushroom notes. You could pay twice as much for a bigger name and get half the pleasure. It’s an absolute gem in its prime. £14.50 down from £16.50.
Thanks to the success of the fresh, elegant mountain Malbecs of Mendoza, Argentina, the producers of the big, brooding, headily alcoholic ‘black wine’ of Cahors were forced to pull their chaussettes up and have a rethink, with the likes of Benoit Aymard leading the charge with his wonderfully stylish 2021 Clos d’Audhuy ‘Les Polissons’ Malbec de Cahors (5). It’s juicy, jammy and surprisingly light on its feet at just 12.5 per cent vol, where the Cahors of old can easily go up to 15 per cent . Get those steaks on the barbecue! £14.95 down from £16.95.
Finally, the 2021 Little Darling Pinot Noir (6) from Marlborough, NZ, as light and delicate as they come. Indeed, it’s so pale it’s almost a rosé. That’s not to say there isn’t character though, with all the typical fresh and sour cherry notes, crushed raspberries and whiff of game you might expect from fine Pinot along with the softest of tannins. £17.50 down from £19.50.
The mixed case (7) has two bottles of each wine and delivery, as ever, is free for orders of £100 or more, with the option of buying bottles in ones or twos to bump up the order. Use code SPECCIE4 to purchase online (not needed for the mixed case).
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