Robert Boutflower of Tanners is a good, kind, generous man. All he and we want is your happiness and so, mindful of the wretched economic situation the twits in charge have landed us in and the ghastly spectre of dread Christmas on the horizon (my words, not his), he put up a deliciously varied selection for me to taste, offered 15 per cent off all the RRPs and suggests you mix your own case rather than take a pre-packed assortment. What a gent.
The 2021 Kumeu Village Chardonnay (1) is a cast-iron favourite of mine from Mike Brajkovich, one of New Zealand’s most highly regarded producers. About as perfect an entry-level Chardonnay as you will find anywhere, it’s marked by an enviable lightness of touch with hints of peach, lemon, cream and the subtlest whisper of oak. Gosh it’s good! £12.24 down from £14.40.
The 2020 Müller-Grossman Kremstal ‘Satz Viertal’ Grüner Veltliner (2) is an equally fine example of Austria’s ‘own’ grape, from vineyards run by mother and daughter Helma Muller-Grossman and Marlies Hanke, west of Vienna. Fresh and inviting with lemon ’n’ lime, a touch of peppery spice and a long, satisfying finish, it’s deliciously food-friendly. £11.73 down from £13.80.
The 2021 Bonnet-Huteau ‘Les Gautronnières’ Muscadet (3) is that vinous phenomenon: gluggably drinkable new wave Muscadet. The wines from this part of the Loire Valley were once notoriously bland and dull and this is anything but. An organic/biodynamic gem, produced by the Bonnet brothers, it’s crisp, clean and dry, with weight and body thanks to six months on the lees. £13.09 down from £15.40.
The 2019 Abbé Rous ‘Réserve des Peintres’ Collioure (4) from Matisse country in deepest south-west of France (it’s almost in Spain) is perfect winter fare, being crammed with ripe, juicy red fruit.
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