There are some typically quirky gems from Swig on offer this week and it’s great to have Robin Davis and the gang back in these pages. Their offer in January was a rip-roarer and, as before, there is plenty here to satisfy even the most demanding of thirsts.
The 2020 Bourgogne Chardonnay Les Truffières, Domaine de Mauperthuis (1) is a Chablis in all but name and price, produced in Auxerre on south-facing Kimmeridgian soils that could easily pass for those of Montée de Tonnerre. Matured for 12 months in stainless steel, it’s crisp, clean and pure, taking its time to unfold gently in the glass and reveal its lightly honeyed floral notes. £14.50 down from £17.50.
The 2021 Blank Bottle Moment of Silence (2), from the bonkers genius that is Pieter Walser, is a cracker. Produced in Wellington, South Africa, it’s a blend of three white grape varieties the names of which the label (and I) won’t reveal since PW reckons one should approach his wines with an open mind, uncluttered with preconceptions (hence Blank Bottle). I loved its rounded peachiness, its touch of cream and its honeysuckle notes. Heck, I loved everything about it and trust you’ll play the game and not google its components until you’ve tasted it. £16.50 down from £19.50.
The 2021 Le Grand Cros GC Rosé (3), from the foothills of the Massif des Maures, is that rarity: a Provencal rosé of character and quality at a sensible price. A blend of seven different grape varieties (mainly Grenache), it’s delightfully complex with wild strawberries, herbs and a hint of exotic spice. Dry on the finish, it’s thirst-quenchingly refreshing and makes me wonder why on earth I spend half as much again on rosés only half as good.
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