So, with Mrs Ray packed off to the airport for her sun-soaked sojourn in Italy, training for The Spectator’s Clays, Claret and Cognac Cruise begins in earnest. The clays could still do with work but I’m close to nailing the liquid element of the jaunt.
I’ve been helped immensely by Armit Wines and the delectable dozen bottles they sent me. Thanks to regular timed sampling, I’m close to match fitness and I’m delighted with this selection (four Italian, one French) I’ve made on your behalf.
The 2021 Bacioilcielo Fiano (1) might be completely unpronounceable – the sort of wine you point to on a wine list rather than ask for – but it’s so drinkable. From the De Conciliis family in Cilento, Campania – that glorious region of Naples and the Amalfi coast – it’s as fine a Fiano as I’ve had: fresh, full and fruity and clean as a whistle. Luigi De C and his sister Paola take a hands-off approach to winemaking; they work organically, are energy self-sufficient and use as little sulphur as they can. And, well, they make gorgeous, great-value wines. £11.67 down from £14.78.
We offered a previous vintage of the 2020 Cantine Lunae Vermentino Etichetta Grigia (2) very successfully a couple of years ago and this is also bang on song. From the Colli di Luni (‘Mountains of the Moon’) in Liguria in Italy’s north-west, it is – as I mentioned before – sibling of the estate’s Etichetta Nera, Gambero Rosso’s 2020 White Wine of the Year. It’s light-ish but concentrated and, with fresh citrus, green apple and peach, offers much to enjoy. £14.17 down from £17.98.
The 2017 Cantele Salice Salentino Riserva (3) from Puglia, in Italy’s heel, is 100 per cent Negroamaro.
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