Wine Club: another Spectator scoop from Chateau Musar

Whoop, whoop, it’s another Spectator scoop! Mighty Ch. Musar of Lebanon has just released its latest – 2017 – vintage, and wily Johnny Wheeler has ensured that readers are the first in the UK to get their hands on it. This wine is not available anywhere else until Easter and, with Musar repositioning the brand (aka putting the price up a fiver a bottle), you won’t find it cheaper. If Musar’s your thing – and it’s certainly mine – do get stuck in.

Yes, the 2017 Ch. Musar White (1) is an acquired taste but it’s one that I have most definitely acquired and trust you have/will too. It’s hard to know with what to compare it, weaving as it does between dry white Bordeaux, white Rioja, white Rhône and even Manzanilla sherry in style. If you enjoy such wines and are bored with Chardonnay, say, or single varietal Sauvignon Blanc, then this oak-fermented blend of two indigenous varieties – Obaideh and Merwah – will be right up your alley. It’s full and rich but dry, slightly oxidative and touched with honey, nuts, succulent citrus and something enticingly savoury on the finish. It’s distinctive and delicious. £33.95 down from £37.95.

The 2020 Musar Jeune Red (2), with its oscillopsia-inducing, Timothy Leary-designed label (only joshing, dunno who came up with it but poor Mrs Ray said it made her eyes hurt), is Musar’s entry-level red, designed to be knocked back with abandon. An unoaked blend of Cinsault, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s fresh, fruity and easy-going and full of juicy, spicy bramble fruit. It’s a sort of hybrid Côtes du Rhône Villages/Bordeaux Supérieur and really jolly good. £14.95 down from £16.95.

The 2019 Hochar Père et Fils Red (3) is the stepping stone between the above and the grand vin, a Cru Bourgeois in quality, let’s say.