Wine Club 6 October

As we all know, getting the first drink of the day right can be a tricky business, not least because what you fancy at noon will be very different from what you want at 7 p.m. On either occasion, you need to tread carefully, with nothing too dry, too sweet or too alcoholic. Too dry and you shock the taste buds and everything tastes overly acidic; too sweet and you bugger up your palate for later. And as for the alcohol, well, you’re just getting your eye in, so take it easy. You can always turn it up to 11 later if necessary.

Full marks, then, to my old chum Laura Taylor of Private Cellar who, at a fraction before noon the other day, pitched it just right with some perfectly chilled 2017 Les Rafelières Sauvignon Blanc (1) from the meticulous Pierre-Jean Sauvion in the Loire Valley. Although made in Muscadet country, it’s more akin to a fine Sancerre with its grassy, blackcurrant leaf and nettle notes.