Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

Wine Club 30 April

Sacha Lichine from Chateau d’Esclans in Provence is recognised as the world’s foremost rosé producer

issue 30 April 2016

There is rosé and there is rosé. By which I mean there is the ghastly, teeth-rattling, vinous bubblegum that is Blossom Hill White (actually pink) Zinfandel from California, which you can pick up in Tesco for a fiver a bottle (plus £3.69 for the subsequent essential Alka-Seltzer), and there is the subtle, herbal, spicy, salmon pink Single Blend from Sacha Lichine’s Château d’Esclans estate in Provence, which you can nab for £9.45 a bottle with this offer. I know which I prefer.

Lichine’s partner at d’Esclans is Patrick Leon, the former head winemaker at Château Mouton-Rothschild, and their avowed intent (which many would say they’ve already achieved) is to make the finest rosés in the world (not to mention the most beautifully packaged).

The aforementioned 2015 Sacha Lichine Single Blend is delightful. Made from Cinsault and Grenache, it’s full of fresh wild strawberry fruit. It’s fruity but dry and nothing if not refreshing. It’s also sealed with a screwcap, making it ideal for instant access when the moment strikes. £9.45 down from £9.95.

The 2015 Château d’Esclans ‘Whispering Angel’ is a pale pink blend of several varieties but chiefly Grenache, Cinsault and (white) Rolle. There’s lusciously ripe fruit, plenty of acidity and an exhilarating, spicy finish. I loved it. £14.95 down from £15.45.

The 2015 Château d’Esclans ‘Rock Angel’ is Lichine and Leon’s best vintage yet of this sophisticated, complex wine. A blend of Grenache and Rolle, it has ripe fruit, a creamy smokiness, a touch of Provençal herbs and a fine acidity. FVD’s Esme Johnstone reckons it’s akin to a fine white burgundy in style and it’s certainly extremely ‘grown up’. £19.20 down from £19.95.

The 2014 Château d’Esclans Les Clan is pale, pale pink and really fine.

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