Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

Wine Club 27 August

issue 27 August 2016

Summer’s taking its leave and we have a fine Gallic half-dozen from Corney & Barrow with which to enjoy the last of the sun. And to cheer us up, we have a double discount on offer, the initial price-lopping enhanced by the fabled Brett-Smith Indulgence, in which a further £6 is knocked off a case if you buy two dozen bottles or more.

We start with the 2015 Corney & Barrow Blanc (1), the most recent vintage of the merchant’s bestselling white wine, beloved of Spectator readers. Produced by Producteurs Plaimont in Gascony, in close cahoots with Corney & Barrow’s buyers, it’s a lemon-fresh, zesty and exuberant blend of Colombard and Ugni Blanc given a touch of extra weight thanks to a short period on the lees. It makes the perfect crowd-pleasing picnic wine or aperitif. £6.63 a bottle with the Brett-Smith Indulgence, £7.13 without, down from the current list price of £7.50.

The 2014 Les Fosses d’Hareng Vouvray (2) is a joy. I love Chenin Blanc, which in the right hands — as here — positively sings in the glass. With the structure and texture of Chardonnay and the vibrancy and freshness of Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin at its best is unbeatable. Sad to say, I’ve had a couple of duffers of late, so fell upon this beauty with open arms. Dry to off-dry, it’s full of peach, pear and custard apple flavours, a whisper of toast and honey and a hint of something savoury on the finish. There’s weight and body too and fine acidity — it’s extremely drinkable. £10.66 with the Indulgence, £11.16 without, down from £11.75.

The 2015 La Muse de Cabestany Rosé (3) is a little gem from the heart of Minervois in the Languedoc exclusive to Corney & Barrow, blended from Grenache and Syrah with an added splash of aromatic Cinsault.

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