Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

Wine Club 17 August

issue 17 August 2019

Everyone loves Beaujolais. Now come on, don’t be like that! Of course they do! I’m not talking about ropey old Beaujolais Nouveau, that vin ordinaire — vin very ordinaire — of 1980s notoriety; I’m talking about the pukka, old-vine, low-yield, top-notch Beaujolais from one of the ten crus of the region.

At their best, these wines from Brouilly, Chénas, Chiroubles, Côte de Brouilly, Fleurie, Juliénas, Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Régnié and Saint-Amour are an absolute joy and delight. Produced from 100 per cent Gamay, they’re fresh, ripe, vibrant, juicy, silky, racy, moreish and about as thirst-quenchingly drinkable as any wine you’ll find.

There’s no doubt that the region’s wines are better than ever and it’s wonderful to see them being taken more seriously at last. Winemakers from Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Rhône have recently been falling over themselves to come and make wine in the region and everyone has upped their game as a result.

The wines of Beaujolais are a fraction of the cost of similar quality Burgundy and, although designed to be drunk young, age surprisingly well.

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