Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

Wine Club 16 March

issue 16 March 2019

My old chum Jason Yapp is never less than chipper. Indeed, his ebullience is boundless. In springtime, this innate effervescence fair bubbles over and his enthusiasm for his wines and his distaste for spittoons are dangerously infectious. It took an age to whittle this selection down to six and I trust you enjoy my choices as much as I did and do.

The 2017 Saint-Pourçain ‘Cuvée Printan-ière’ (1) comes from the upper Loire Valley and, in typical regional French style, there’s bugger all information on the front label and no label on the back to speak of. It’s only because JY insisted on wafting it under my beak and wouldn’t take no for an answer that I took any interest at all. I’m glad I did, for it’s delightfully crisp, clean, fresh and citrussy. Produced by the commendable local co-operative, it’s a blend of Chardonnay and Trésallier (don’t be daft, I’d not heard of it either) and makes a perfect springtime aperitif.

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