Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

Wine Club 16 July

issue 16 July 2016

We at The Spectator drink a lot of Pol Roger Champagne. It’s more or less the house pour. Not every day you understand, just on high days and holidays such as the Spectator summer party, from which more than a few of us are still recovering.

And I must say that when standing like a vertical sardine in the crush of said party, stuck fast between a resolute Remainer and a wild-eyed Brexiteer, both about to kick off, there is nothing more heartening than the sight of the familiar white-foil bottle. A tap on the waiter’s shoulder, a pirouette-like turn, a swift gulp and I was away, free to muscle in on the gossip behind me about what happened at that Boris barbecue.

The Spectator and Pol Roger were founded a mere 21 years apart — the Speccie in 1828 and Pol in 1849 — and both continue to go from strength to strength.

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