Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

Wine Club 14 October

issue 14 October 2017

As readers know, The Spectator is a famously broad church. All manner of opinions are held and expressed here, and it’s impossible to find common ground, be it on Brexit, Trump and May, or even on the relative merits of Marmite and Bovril, say, or how to pronounce ‘controversy’ correctly. No one agrees about anything.

What a shock, then, to find total unanimity among thirsty members of Spectator staff who joined me and Laura Taylor from Private Cellar to taste wines for this offer. Never were spittoons so redundant.

The following six wines were the favourites. Actually, I lie: there was one dissenting voice about just one of the wines. In the interests of dictatorial democracy, though, said voice was made to reconsider his position and naturally ended up agreeing with the majority.

The 2016 S’Elemè Vermentino di Gallura (1) had everyone purring. Indeed, Helen and Scarlett said ‘Ooh, lush!’ in almost perfect unison. Made from 100 per cent Vermentino grown high in the wind-battered, granite slopes of northern Sardinia, it’s vibrantly fresh (thanks to cool nights), generous and ripe (hot days). It’s also gloriously citrusy with just a hint of peach on the long finish. £10.95 down from £11.95.

The 2016 Château Argadens Blanc (2) is a blend of 65 per cent Sauvignon Blanc and 35 per cent Sémillon from the Entre Deux Mers. Given that the estate is owned by the Sichel family, there’s a touch of Château Palmer stardust here and it’s beautifully made. Alex loved its hint of almonds; Scarlett admired its typical Sauvignon grassiness, and I liked its subtle use of oak and its long finish. £11.25 down from £12.95.

The 2016 Mallory & Benjamin Talmard Mâcon Uchizy (3) is a Burgundian beauty. ‘We should definitely offer this one!’ declared Declan.

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