Wine Club 14 March

I fear Jason Yapp is slowing up a bit. The co-proprietor (with step-brother Tom Ashworth) of Yapp Bros is notorious for his love of long lunches so I felt more than a little short-changed when, last week, he dashed for the early train before the digestif trolley had even slipped its moorings and steamed into view.

Last time, lunch went on until midnight and so impressed were the restaurant’s staff that we received a guard of honour on departure and a free umbrella. No such luck on this occasion. Still, the Yapps’ wines remain resolutely on song and we dipped our beaks into some crackers, six of which I present to you here with hearty commendation.

I adore the white wines of the Rhône Valley and not just for their rarity (they comprise just 6 per cent of the region’s production). I love them because they’re so darn tasty and the 2017 Domaine Saint Gayan, Côtes du Rhône Villages Sablet, ‘l’Oratory’ (1) is a perfect example.