Why there’s never been a better time to see Venice

You’re never going to see Venice quite like this again. Usually swarming with tourists – not to mention the enormous cruise ships that dock in its waters ­– the city has been given a serious breather by the coronavirus pandemic. Those lengthy queues to get into its most famous hotspots have disappeared; the picturesque back streets lie empty and a dramatic fall in water traffic has seen the sediment in its 150 canals settle, allowing their vibrant colour to return. La Serenissima – much to many of the locals’ relief – has become serene once more.

Where to stay

Belmond Hotel Cipriani

In a city where five-star luxury errs towards intricate brocades and heavy gilding, Hotel Cipriani is all about understated old-world charm: think crisp white walls, elegant antiques and intricate Fortuny fabrics. Perched on the edge of Giudecca island, overlooking the lagoon towards St Mark’s Square, it’s a firm celebrity favourite: Frank Sinatra, Sophia Loren and Ronald Reagan have all stayed here, while Elizabeth Taylor’s dog Honey was once served its own ‘cocktail’ at the Gabbiano bar (water in a Murano glass bowl).