Why I love terrible towns

There are plenty of reasons to visit Catania in Sicily, and some of them are positive. The town is impressively ancient – dating back to the 8th century bc. It boasts a handsome, lavishly voluted Baroque core. A few steps from that main piazza you can find the picturesque fish market, the Pescheria, which sequins the black tufa cobbles with silvery fish scales, and has been selling inky squid for centuries.

What else? The city has a striking location, with Mount Etna squatting on the horizon, apparently benign, but occasionally sending out chuffs of smoke to remind you of its menace, like a volcanic version of Tony Benn, puffing his pipe at the edge of British politics. In the cafés you can eat the breasts of Saint Agatha – that’s a kind of cake, celebrating the breasts torn off a defiant Christian virgin around ad 300 (I’m eating one breast as I write this).