If the brimming hedgerows were not enough to sate your taste buds this autumn, then it’s time to turn your attention to game season. As I’ve written, game is not only delicious but sustainable and healthy too. Indeed, venison is higher in protein and lower in fat than any other meat. It’s not for nothing that the British Association for Shooting and Conservation (BASC) are in conversations with NHS leadership to explore getting ‘boil in the bag’ game to rural hospitals to nourish inpatients.
Game is also extremely varied. Poultry can sometimes get boring: chicken is too ubiquitous, duck too fatty to eat often, and no-one really likes turkey except once a year for nostalgia’s sake. With game, you can turn an everyday meal into something that feels special. Regal venison, usefully single-portioned quail, interesting wood pigeon, and of course partridge and pheasant. They are all well worth cooking at home, but if you want to let the experts take care of things, there’s a smorgasbord of options for game lovers to enjoy this season:
Kitchen W8‘s Mark Kempson has a reputation for being one of London’s best game chefs, and every autumn the restaurant does a special tasting menu.
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