Paul Mason

Where it’s all kicking off in Athens nightlife

A savvy visitor's guide to the post-crisis Greek capital

View to the Acropolis [Getty Images/Shutterstock/iStock/Alamy] 
issue 19 April 2014

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[/audioplayer]Where in the developed world can you ride a moped, minus helmet, at 2 a.m. under the noses of weary riot cops, when your night out has only just begun? Athens of course. Greece is in its sixth year of recession and crisis but this is still one of Europe’s great cities for culture, food, drink and entertainment.

First stop: Bouzoukia. Forget all your troubles as you spend the small hours listening to live Greek pop music of a kind that makes The X Factor look underproduced. Despite the austerity, young Greeks say they will never sacrifice their nightlife and here is the proof. Most of the Bouzoukia venues are found along the coast between Glyfada and Pireas: April to July is the summer season. The respectable hour to leave is when all the carnations have been thrown and the street cleaners are starting their morning shift.

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