Tanya Gold Tanya Gold

What Liz Truss’s coffee habit says about her

issue 05 November 2022

According to excerpts from Out of the Blue, the cursed biography of Liz Truss by Harry Cole and The Spectator’s James Heale, Truss is dependent on two things for comfort: Instagram and espresso. On a trade delegation to New Zealand, she’d ‘had so much coffee and just wasn’t interested in meeting the ambassador’.

Coffee is from Ethiopia. Its origins as a foodstuff are murky, but the best legend is about a goatherd called Kaldi who in the mid-9th century noticed that his goats ate black beans and became manic and sleepless: essentially, they started dancing. From there, coffee spread to Egypt, Syria, Turkey and Persia.

But when coffee met Christianity there was the moral panic that reliably comes when a powerful new stimulant is found. It was called ‘the bitter invention of Satan’. Venetian clergy condemned it – they were more emotionally dependent on religious-themed portraiture, to be fair – but Pope Clement VIII (1536-1605) liked it, and it took over from wine and beer.

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