Sara Wheeler

Via dolorosa

Hoping to beat his inner demons, Guy Stagg sets out on pilgrimage, taking refuge with strangers or sleeping in convents, monasteries and mosques

issue 30 June 2018

Guy Stagg walked 5,500 km from Canterbury to Jerusalem, following medieval pilgrim paths, and he records the expedition in The Crossway. It was a journey from darkness to light, as the author, who suffers from mental illness, looked for redemption. It was also a considerable feat, especially as Stagg proclaims lugubriously at the outset: ‘I’m not much of a walker!’

He stayed in convents, monasteries, in his tent, in disused schools or the homes of strangers, and, later, in mosques. He crossed the Alps in winter in order to make Rome for Easter, and it took him six days to clear the Apennines. On the trail, he reflectsa good deal on what he has been through — a breakdown, suicide attempts, the nature of mental illness. ‘Though I hoped to walk free of my sickness,’ he says, ‘its memories still haunted me.’ Good and bad happens on the way; he gets ill, physically as well as mentally.

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