Far be it from me to denounce the British for having lost interest in their heritage — they have embraced multiculturalism, deny the good their empire once brought the world, have banned fox hunting — but when it comes to changes that directly affect me, it’s time for action. Especially when the change is based on a silly agreement made 26 years ago. Let’s take it from the top: Mark Birley is known the civilised world over as the numero uno upmarketclub/restaurant/ nightclub owner, the so-called Nijinsky of the catering world, a perfectionist like no other, and the proof is in the pudding, as they say in Kansas. His four clubs, Annabel’s, Mark’s, Harry’s Bar and George, are the best-run, most perfect retreats imaginable, offering not only the best food, wines and atmosphere by far, but also the best service. The last is important.
In the years that I’ve been dining and clubbing my nights away, I don’t think I have ever left a Birley establishment with the slightest complaint.
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