Tanya Gold

‘Thinks of the diner, not the chef’: Claridge’s Restaurant, reviewed

[Claridge's] 
issue 05 August 2023

The BBC made a very odd documentary about the renovation of Claridge’s: The Mayfair Hotel Megabuild. They filmed, agog, as the hotel grew eight new storeys – three above, and five below – between 2014 and 2021 while staying open: guests slept and ate, unaware of ‘Narnia doors’ to the building site. (That Narnia is where guests aren’t indicates what Claridge’s employees cannot put into words without spontaneously combusting.) Labourers dug the basement by hand and impersonated the Artful Dodger when management toured. The BBC described the new penthouse at length without mentioning that it is gross, with a grand piano in a glass box on a terrace like a Richard Clayderman-themed nightmare. A roof was assembled off-site and stuck on as for a doll’s house. The spa, which offers a facial treatment where the guest must wear a Darth Vader-style mask, flooded in a rainstorm.

It is a British-style brasserie, which means that it thinks of the diner, not the chef

But amid the abyss, something has bloomed: something always does.

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