Forget footwear. The most telling thing about Theresa May, as suggested in interview with Robert Peston, is her cookbook collection – she has 100. Her remarks about her cookery writer of choice was an extraordinary exercise in character signalling. ‘Delia is very precise,’ she said, ‘and I like a bit of… throw a bit here and a bit there, and Ottolenghi is really interesting in the stuff that he does.
Right. Unless you’re a member of the smirking liberal metropolitan elite – or, like me, a cookbook reviewer – or Theresa May, you may not be familiar with Yotam Ottolenghi, but this is as clear an indicator as you can get that you’re a cosmopolitan internationalist with a free and easy approach to immigration. Yotam is to the contemporary urban metrosexual what the River Café was to New Labour – not just a source of really good recipes but an indicator of an entire socio-political outlook.
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