There is good news in the world – and it is mostly about wine

My last piece began with a one-word sentence: ‘Gloom.’ A dear friend reproached me. ‘In a world already abundant with gloom, surely you can find a way of cheering us up. After all, you’re not writing about politics – or at least you’re not supposed to be.’ I promised to try harder to propagate good news.

When it comes to wine, that is not impossible. Twenty years ago, in Lisbon, I was treated to a bottle of Barca Velha. I was told that the Portuguese regarded it as their Château Latour. Needless to say, it was not that good but I remember thinking that it was a jolly decent drop of stuff, and – in those days – excellent value. Only half of that judgment still holds true. I tried a 2012 the other day and it was excellent: as good as a Bordeaux second growth. But the price has shot up. If you come by a bottle, drink it with every expectation of pleasure, except for the bill.

There are other Portuguese bottles well worth considering. In the old days, most of the wine produced along the Douro was used to make port. But as the Douro is the lower reaches of the Duero, which produces a great deal of outstanding wine – most notably Vega Sicilia – Portuguese vignerons followed Barca Velha’s example and promoted their bottles. Though not in the Barca Velha league, all the ones I have tasted have been good, and they are decent value, for the moment. It is also possible to find drinkable vinho verde. Admittedly, that is best drunk at one of those basic restaurants on the beach at Cascais, eating sardines straight from the sea – but it can just about work on a chilly March day in London, with a fish pie or even a curry.