Christian Wolmar

The wonders of the Paris Metro

With their elegant entrances and blend of Art Nouveau, Romanticism and Modernism, the white-tiled stations of the Parisian underground are works of art in themselves

The entrance to the Metro at Porte Dauphine, designed by Hector Guimard. [Getty Images] 
issue 05 August 2023

Andrew Martin is in love. Head over heels in love, quite unable to control himself in his appreciation of the object of his affection, which is, believe it or not, an underground railway network. While this may seem an irrational attachment, it becomes easier to understand as his account of the origins, history and, most importantly, design of the system unfolds. ‘What most distinguishes the Metro,’ Martin tells us, ‘is its beauty.’ Its eroticism is, too, ‘expressed in diverse ways’, notably condom machines dotted around the system, advertisements for vibrators and the revelation that Ticket de Metro is ‘the name of the most popular bikini wax among Parisian women’.

In fact there is something very special rooted in the origins of the Metro which differentiates it from other underground systems. One of the early proponents of the network, Charles Garnier, the architect of the Paris Opera, wrote that the Metropolitain would be accepted by Parisians only if ‘it rejects absolutely all industrial character so as to be completely a work of art’.

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