Alexander Masters

The windswept German island that inspired quantum physics

Carlo Rovelli describes Werner Heisenberg’s efforts to understand the wayward behaviour of atoms, and ends up questioning whether reality exists

(Photo by PATRIK STOLLARZ/AFP via Getty Images) 
issue 03 April 2021

Helgoland is a craggy German island in the North Sea. Barely bigger than a few fields, it reaches high above the water on precipitous cliffs and is famous for its sweet air. It has a town and a harbour, and the 1,000-odd inhabitants speak a distinct dialect. In the summer of 1925, the 23-year-old physicist Werner Heisenberg went there to sort out his hay fever and solve the problem of reality.

Helgoland is a slightly misleading title for Carlo Rovelli’s inspiring, chaotic, delightfully unsatisfactory book of popular quantum physics. It isn’t about Heisenberg’s months there or his mathematical insights; ‘Helgoland’ is Rovelli’s shorthand for Heisenberg’s pellucid state of mind. On Helgoland, says Rovelli, Heisenberg almost got the philosophical approach to quantum theory right. Ever since, we’ve been getting it wrong.

The discovery of a quantum world began with experimental results. Certain things were taking place in German physics labs that should not be.

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