The truth about plant-based food

There’s an air of familiarity about the former head chef of Claridge’s penchant for plant-based food. It was reported this weekend that he has left his role after the hotel passed on his plans for an entirely plant-based menu. All credit to Claridge’s who are one of the few institutions not to have swallowed this particular culinary cool aid. And yet these sorts of gastro-themed spats are becoming all too common. The all-or-nothing attitude of many plant-based devotees has made dining out an increasingly divisive experience.

Remember when the ‘vegetarian option’ meant making do with a cheese omelette and ethical eating involved skipping the prawn cocktail starter and going straight for the steak and chips? Order steak in a restaurant today and you risk a barrage of disapproving comments from fellow diners. ‘I hope that meat was sourced locally,’ they’ll mutter between mouthfuls of Mexican chia seeds.

I’m all for high quality grub and kinder husbandry but do we really have to make even our eating habits into a culture war? In 2021, dietary requirements are bandied about with as much vehemence as preferred pronouns. Saying