James Crowden

The sweet temptation of scrumping

England is a land of strange fruits

  • From Spectator Life
(iStock)

In autumn when apples cascade off the trees and bedeck the orchard’s floor with fields of red and gold, thoughts naturally turn to an ancient survival instinct: foraging – or, as we tend to call it in my part of the world, scrumping. Yet although scrumping seems as English as Shakespeare, conker fights and Bonfire nights, it is quite a recent word borrowed from the Middle Dutch schrimpen, meaning shrivelled (or perhaps a derivation of the verb ‘to scrimp’).

Crab apples are a bit small and dry, high in tannins but very good sliced and fried up with smoked bacon

When sugar was scarce in medieval times, fruit was an obsession and the autumn harvest closely guarded. Not just apples either. There is the Chaucerian medlar in the Reeve’s Tale:

A fruit which is rotten before it is ripe
Unless I fare like medlar, all perverse
For that fruit’s never ripe until it’s worse.

Medlars, though seemingly like apples but really roses, are often a coded reference for fallen women.

Written by
James Crowden

James Crowden is a poet from Somerset and a former shepherd, cider maker and forester. He is the author of Cider Country: How an Ancient Craft Became a Way of Life.

Topics in this article

Comments

Join the debate for just $5 for 3 months

Be part of the conversation with other Spectator readers by getting your first three months for $5.

Already a subscriber? Log in