Some years ago, on a trip up America’s Pacific Northwest, I spent a night in Portland in a hotel that was depressing in the way that not-quite-posh, not-quite-cool hotels can be. As part of its attempt to inject a sense of pizzazz into my cavernous room, there was a welcome pack whose starring feature was a can of Pinot Noir – the size and shape of a Diet Coke can, with a joke on the side about this being ‘soccer mom’ wine. The reference to hassled housewives ferrying their progeny about to games, desperate for surreptitious booze, depressed me further and I added ‘wine in tins’ to the list of vulgar American inventions I’d forever resist.
Flash forward a decade and wine in tins has departed the domain of pissed suburban mums and entered the world of the hip, expensive and desirable. Of
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