Emily Maitlis

The soft diplomacy of Belgian chocolates

Emily Maitlis reports from Libya on a land newly entranced by our brands — even M&S — where the West tolerates Gaddafi for fear of the insurgent alternative

issue 29 March 2008

Emily Maitlis reports from Libya on a land newly entranced by our brands — even M&S — where the West tolerates Gaddafi for fear of the insurgent alternative

Strange things happen to countries hermetically sealed by their dictators. Under Hoxha, Albanians fell in love with Norman Wisdom. Under Lukashenko, the Belarusians have seen mandatory beauty contests nationwide, and as I arrive at the customs desk of Tripoli airport I realise that under Gaddafi, mirrored aviator sunglasses and big hair have become the de rigueur fashion statement among immigration officials. This is not the cool hand of viral marketing, but the unmistakable grip of a leader who believes imitation is the sincerest — indeed only — form of flattery.

The source of their inspiration stares out at us from every billboard on the short trip from the airport into town. There are pictures of Gaddafi shrouded in headscarf, staring into a misty distance, there are images of him peeking out from behind a sunflower — like a cross between a Castrol GTX hero and a malevolent Teletubby — and there are road signs that just flash the number 38.

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