Ysenda Maxtone Graham

The sadness of Britain’s seaside resorts

Their decline began with the arrival of package holidays in the 1960s – and new schemes for their revival seem already to have backfired

Margate beach, with the Turner Contemporary in the far distance. Opened in 2011, the art gallery promised to regenerate the town, but may have aggravated Margate’s problems. [Alamy] 
issue 06 May 2023

Now the exhilaration kicks in, the lightness of heart, a joyfulness surging along the warmed blood vessels and tingling extremities: every cell feels as if charged with new life. There has been a ritual, a sacrifice, an offering to the waves of flesh and pain, and in return, there is restoration, life given back.

Thus Madeleine Bunting describes the bliss, not of swimming, but of having just emerged from the icy British sea into which she is addicted to plunging in winter as well as summer. In this fizzing state, having pulled her clothes back on, she goes straight to the nearest steamy café for fish and chips and tea.

When package holidays became available, ‘Blackpool moved lock, stock and barrel to Benidorm’ 

Tempted? I’m certainly not out of season (delicious though the fish and chips and tea sound). But I do like to read about the contemporary British seaside as experienced and described by this thoughtful, investigative writer who, post-swims, takes off her rose-tinted specs.

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