Thomas Marks

The Romantic poets

There has never been a better time to make the pilgrimage to Keats’s grave

issue 28 May 2016

People can be mightily protective of their Romantic poets. When I worked at the Keats Shelley House, overlooking the Spanish Steps in Rome, one of my colleagues developed a callus on her hand where the daily task of locking the museum door — emphatically — caused the key to abrade her skin. And when I last visited Keats’s grave, with a friend, in the city’s Non-Catholic Cemetery, a middle-aged Italian woman snapped at us to shut up as she muttered through a printout of ‘To Autumn’.

It’s strange in a way that Keats should inspire such devotion in Rome, since he wrote no poetry in Italy and only a handful of letters survive from the four months that he spent dying there. Arriving in October 1820, his ship was quarantined in the Bay of Naples (where he felt his ‘intellect in splints’); then came an uncomfortable journey north, before his ghastly ‘awkward bow’ in the apartment on Piazza di Spagna, which at the time was the centre of Rome’s Ghetto degli Inglesi.

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