The rise of British cheese

Say cheese. Now, say ‘British Cheese’ and what comes to mind? A nice bit of Cheddar? A wedge of Stilton? Fair enough; but would you be surprised to know there are now no fewer than 800 British and Irish cheeses, many of them new?

There has been an upsurge in cheesemaking in Britain. Some of the new cheeses are novelties in conception and technique, others are Continental European in style but there has also been a welcome return of at least some old fashioned and excellent county cheeses, like Cheshire (once the aristocrat of cheeses), Gloucester, Leicester and Caerphilly. It’s been an astonishing phenomenon and it has happened over quite a short time, in the last two or three decades, while most of us weren’t looking. 

Cheesy people are using terms like terroir to describe the connection between the soil and character of a place and its milk and cheese, a word which normally is associated with wine.