The pleasures of Puglia

If Italy is the elegant, over-the-knee boot plunged into the Mediterranean, then Puglia is the narrow peninsula that forms its spiky stiletto heel. The word that springs to mind regarding Puglia is trullo — miniature stone structures that look like igloos, and in my experience are the ideal devices to convince your kids to holiday with you. Why would they choose an eight-day party in Croatia when they can stay in cute white circular mini-houses, with an infinity pool in front? Even better, you could go for a trulli hotel, complete with that Puglian speciality, the beach pool.

And into these beach pools wade the Italians, with their indifferent attitude to bathing in public. They aren’t for exercise. They’re for lounging, lolling, chilling and chatting — and most probably smoking — while wearing jewellery, an impossibly deep tan, and coiffed hair. And that’s just the men. The women take it further, in neon-bright bikinis and a full face of make-up.