Olivia Potts Olivia Potts

The pleasure of reliving foreign travel through food

Russian hand pies, Polish chlodnik, Turkish fruit compote and a Latvian trifle are among the many dishes recreated in Edinburgh by the globetrotting Caroline Eden

Recapturing chlodnik, a chilled beetroot soup from Poland, becomes an ‘urgent need’ for Caroline Eden. [Alamy] 
issue 22 June 2024

The idea of the kitchen as a space for transformation and transportation is not a new one. Many writers have explored the room’s ability to offer both domesticity and alchemy at the same time – how it allows cooks to travel vicariously through the food they make. This is the subject of Cold Kitchen, Caroline Eden’s memoir of her time spent in her kitchen in Scotland and of her travels to Eastern European and Central Asian cities – and somehow she makes it fresh and compelling.

She is an author and critic who has written extensively about the food and culture of the countries of the former Soviet Union. Black Sea, in which she explored Odessa, Istanbul and Trabzon, received a clutch of prizes, and Red Sands, about Central Asia, won the prestigious André Simon food book award. In Cold Kitchen, she treads familiar ground. The travels which take her away from her kitchen are places she has written about before: Istanbul, Uzbekistan and Riga.

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