The opulent Nile cruise that evokes Agatha Christie’s Egypt

We’ve been warned about Aswan’s ‘little crocodiles’ – and it’s not long before they make their appearance. Gliding through the water, sleek bodies shining in the sun, they circle the felucca slowly, eyes glinting with curiosity. As only a handful of tourists currently exploring the Nile, we’re the exotic species – and potential rich pickings at that. ‘A dollar, please, a dollar, please,’ cries the ringleader, stretching out a hand from his paddleboard as another breaks into an off-key rendition of the Macarena. ‘Lovely jubbly,’ grins a third, pocketing a scrunched up note with appreciation.

These are not the river’s feared reptiles, of course, which used to dominate the Nile but now exist in small clusters around Lake Nasser, but youngsters who make a living charming the 13 million or so tourists who arrive in Egypt each year. Or used to, that is. Covid has not been kind to this country, which has seen visitor numbers – not to mention essential revenue – plummet since the beginning of the pandemic.