Ameer Kotecha

The many faces of Oxo cubes

Their uses extend far beyond stock

  • From Spectator Life
A 1920s magazine advertisement for Oxo cubes [Alamy]

It is now not unusual to find ‘bone broth’ in the refrigerated sections of supermarkets or delis, on sale for more than £7. Who can afford this stuff? If you have the time to make your own stock then all credit to you. But if not, the concentrated stock in little cubes or tubs is perfectly acceptable. Knorr and fancy upstarts such as Kallo pose as the superior products. But Oxo has stood the test of time. In a flooded stock market, their cubes remain my choice.

Beef is the classic (the name ‘Oxo’ is thought to come from the word ‘ox’). Retailers seem to have taken the lamb version off the shelves, though the brand says they’re working on getting it back. The company has moved with the times, a few years ago launching the first vegan cube. It won’t be my go-to – I use the chicken version most often – but if it means a less dry nut roast at the Christmas table I won’t object.

Above all I drink it unadulterated as a hot and reviving drink, as one would Bovril.

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