Toby Young

The joys of Canada by train

All aboard the Rocky Mountaineer

  • From Spectator Life
The Rocky Mountaineer

There cannot be a lazier way of travelling across Canada than in the Rocky Mountaineer. There are luxury trains, and then there’s this. For two days, I sat in a sumptuously upholstered, air-conditioned carriage, looking out at the vast wilderness of Canada’s interior, as waiters plied me with wine, chocolates and three-course meals. When imagining my trip across the Canadian Rockies, I had envisaged plenty of bracing walks and fresh air. But by the end of my journey, I had gained five-and-a-half pounds.

I went on a walk around the frozen lake accompanied by a guide who warned us about a bear known as the Boss who weighs 497lbs

Admittedly, I was in GoldLeaf, the most luxurious section of this glass-domed, double-decker train. The serfs in SilverLea’ had to descend to the lower deck for their meals, but GoldLeaf passengers could remain in their seats as their food was brought to them.

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