Alec Marsh

The joy of Suffex: England’s county that never was

The liminal borderland where north Essex and south Suffolk meet deserves recognition

  • From Spectator Life
John Constable's 'Dedham Mill' [Alamy]

There is a point on the dreaded A12 – a road so soulless it makes the M4 looks like Shangri La – when you reach the end of Essex. If you’re driving from London it takes you a surprisingly long time; there’s a lot of noisy beige concrete to go over – about 60 miles’ worth – with roadside highlights including a large, sad-looking ‘adult shop’ that was clearly a Happy Eater or Little Chef in more innocent times, and dejected-looking service stations with alarming short slip-roads. Then of course there are lorries galore thundering along, laden with shipping containers bound for Felixstowe, Britain’s happiest sounding port. Heading east you’ll pass signs for places like Basildon, Billericay, Brentwood, Chelmsford, Clacton and Southend-on-Sea.

This northern fringe of Essex and southern portion of Suffolk have arguably more in common than the rest of their parts

But before you actually cross the finishing line and arrive into Suffolk, there’s something you should know.

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