Jeremy Clarke Jeremy Clarke

The healing power of medieval austerity

After a morning at a 15th-century priory, and lunch at the Café de France, I rejoined the ranks of the alive and well

Salagon Priory, Provence [Chris Hellier / Alamy Stock Photo] 
issue 12 February 2022

Eighty yards west of the high terrace where I’ve sat for three weeks recuperating is a hospice built for Napoleon’s veterans. Solidly constructed high up in the south-facing cliff-face, it comprises a complex of walkways and balconies interconnected by precipitous staircases. It is easy to imagine the battered survivors of Leipzig and Borodino perched up there on those ledges exposing their sabre cuts and bullet wounds to Dr Sun.

Which we’ve had plenty of lately. Sun-worshippers of an envious disposition look away now: the year so far has been almost cloudless. Every day the same pale blue horizon. Freezing nights, though. At sundown I ferry my collection of pot-grown cacti into the house and return them after breakfast. And for the past fortnight, since the final dose of chemotherapy, that tiled floor 10ft square, and Dr Sun moving from right to left, has been my world.

The chemotherapy doses were three weeks apart for six months.

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