Ameer Kotecha

The full English is a breakfast to be proud of

A celebration of the fry-up

  • From Spectator Life
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The British playwright Somerset Maugham once said that ‘to eat well in England you should eat breakfast three times a day’. I think he meant it as a jibe, but we should take it as a compliment.

Our breakfast is as powerfully evocative of England as any part of our cultural heritage. In The Lion and the Unicorn, stirred to patriotism amid the country’s daily bombardment in the Blitz, George Orwell opined that English civilisation was ‘somehow bound up with solid breakfasts and gloomy Sundays, smoky towns and winding roads, green fields and red pillar-boxes. It has a flavour of its own’. That flavour is of sizzling bacon, straight from the pan.

Rare is the Englishman who doesn’t have strong views on how they like it: toasted bread or fried? Mushrooms or tomatoes? Fried egg or scrambled? Ketchup or HP sauce?

Our beloved breakfast has been the subject of a serious work of anthropology in Kaori O’Connor’s The English Breakfast in which she declares it to be the most famous national meal in the world.

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