Everyone knows that Italy is a boot. Many people know that the boot has a heel – the rocky, sunburnt region of Puglia. Perhaps a few know that the heel has a spur – the Gargano Peninsula. Yet virtually no one knows that the Gargano hides a magical woodland – the Foresta Umbra – a national park and treasure. And one of a dozen or more Italian parklands that are practically unvisited by foreign tourists.
Puglia is studded with eerie and beautiful castles, allegedly possessed of occult properties
My intention is to do a walking tour of the Gargano, kindly organised by a British travel company, who will ferry my luggage from hotel to hotel, and provide me with maps and picnics – so all I have to do is put one foot in front of the other, with handy compass points on a detailed guide, to make sure I don’t fall in the Adriatic.

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