Sean Thomas Sean Thomas

The day I met a sun priest

A Kogi girl in Tayrona, Colombia [Getty Images] 
issue 29 June 2024

Palomino, Colombia

Sean Thomas has narrated this article for you to listen to.

I’m in a truly wonderful place: the Caribbean coast of Colombia. It’s got more bird species than most of Europe, exquisite cotton-top tamarin monkeys that hop through jungles, and one of the world’s highest coastal mountain ranges. There are empty beaches, shimmering lakes, colonial townscapes and a recent folk memory of terrible gangsters.

Some male babies are largely kept in caves from birth, in the darkness, until they are nine 

It also boasts several indigenous tribes, one of which – the Kogi – I had never heard of until I got here. But the more I read about them from my hammock on the beach, the more I become determined to encounter them – and to talk to one. A Kogi.

Why? Because they are so strange. For a start, they are probably the last of the pre-Colombian people to live pretty much as they did before colonial times: in simple stone huts, lost in the mountains and jungles.

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